ACME Standards…
If you’ve ever stood next to one of our buggy bodies in the sunlight and watched the color explode with sparkle, you might wonder how that effect actually gets into the fiberglass. It isn’t paint—and it isn’t a shortcut. The shine starts right in the mold, and it’s the result of a careful step-by-step laminating process that combines proper mold prep, metal flake technique, and good fiberglass practice.
The first step is prepping the mold. Before anything is sprayed, the mold has to be perfectly clean and properly waxed. Any dust, residue, or missed wax can ruin a finish, so we take the time to clean the mold thoroughly and apply mold release wax so the body will separate cleanly once it’s cured.
Next we prepare all the gel coats that will be used in the process. That includes a UV-resistant clear gel coat and a second batch of clear gel coat mixed with the cobalt blue metal flake. Getting the mix right ahead of time keeps the spraying process consistent and ensures the flake stays evenly suspended in the material.
Once everything is ready, we spray an initial layer of clear gel coat into the mold. This first coat becomes the outer surface of the finished body, providing depth and a smooth protective layer over the flake.
After that flashes off slightly, we spray a very thin, quick layer of clear gel coat mixed with metal flake. This light coat is an important trick of the trade. Because it’s applied lightly, the flakes tend to stand up more instead of laying completely flat, which helps them catch and reflect light. That’s what gives the body that extra sparkle when sunlight hits it.
With that sparkle layer in place, we then spray a heavier coat of the clear gel coat and metal flake mixture, making sure the entire mold surface is evenly covered. This is where the body really gets its color density and consistent flake coverage. Once that layer is applied, we allow it to cure properly before moving on.
After curing, we go back and apply what we call “puddy.” Puddy is simply a thicker version of the clear gel coat with metal flake mixed in. It’s used to fill tight areas of the mold—corners, sharp 90-degree sections, and deep crevices where sprayed material may not have fully built up. This ensures those areas stay strong and that the flake coverage remains consistent throughout the body.
Once the surface layers are complete, we begin the structural fiberglass work by chopping fiberglass into the mold and rolling it out. The chopped glass is saturated with resin and worked carefully with rollers to remove air pockets and ensure the laminate bonds tightly to the gel coat layers. After this stage, the body is again allowed to cure.
Next we begin laying fiberglass sheeting and mats, building up the structural thickness of the body. These layers add the strength that allows the body to handle vibration, mounting stress, and years of driving. Once the reinforcement layers are in place, they are also left to fully cure.
After the fiberglass structure is complete, the inside of the body is backed with a black gel coat. This seals the fiberglass laminate, protects it from moisture, and gives the inside of the body a clean, finished appearance. Again, we allow this layer to cure thoroughly before removing the part from the mold.
With everything fully cured, it’s finally time for one of the most satisfying moments in the shop: popping the body from the mold. When the mold releases, the glossy flake finish that was built inside the mold is revealed.
From there we move into the finishing work. The mold flanges are ground off, the edges are cleaned up, and the body begins to look like the dune buggy everyone recognizes. Finally, the surface is buffed to bring out the deep shine, and the hood is fitted and mounted so the body is ready for the next stage of the build.
It’s a process that takes time and attention to detail, but doing it this way means the sparkle, color, and finish are molded directly into the body itself. The result is that classic dune buggy look—deep color, brilliant flake, and a finish that will keep shining for years.
– John Mickle
